Saturday, 15 October 2016

Lottie - Black and White Tv and Film Make-up


Make-up for black and white photography and film.

Notes.

- Prep models skin; cleanse tone moisturise
- important to have some oil on skin etc moisturiser or mixed in with foundation so skin appears hydrated and has skin like finish, also helps products cling to skin better 
-  Color match foundation to models skin tone, needs to be the same shade and then mixed with a small amount of white to make shade cooler, don't want any warmth
- Apply foundation starting at T zone then spread out towards outer part of face, can use hands and/or brushes 
- The amount of coverage is important as you want enough for skin to look even and airbrushed under the camera but not too heavy that it looks like make-up and not just skin 
- Don't put foundation onto the lips as it creates unwanted  finish and texture (unneeded)
- Apply foundation to neck,ears (where it is needed) so that coverage is even and blocking out all warmth 
- Blend product into models hairline with flat foundation brush, creates skin finish and blends product out nicely 
- press palm onto the skin in a blotting motion to warm/mix skin with foundation to create a soft skin finish, "palming" the pores from hands and on the face help absorb and soften the product 
- Use a small amount of setting powder to begin strobing the face 
- You can apply setting powder right before shooting under camera or whilst applying whole make-up look
- Apply setting powder to bridge of nose, chin, forehead, cheeks, cupids bow (where you would highlight)
- Adding a small amount of water to eye shadow makes the colour more intense, gives you more control over the product and also prevents fall out (handy when creating a smokey eye)
- Use tissue to rest on face when working on face so that skin isn't interrupted 
- Blend dark brown colour into crease softly/lightly then apply matte light colour over lid and above the crease colour 
- Extend the same warm colour to side of nose from eyebrow, this adds more depth and and warmth to features under camera
- To enhance brows they need to be subtle/ dark enough and hair like (no block brows)
- To add depth to the cheeks you can take darker shades from glam glow palette to define cheek bones, patting product on cheekbone contour and blending softly making sure it is still dramatic 
- You can use black lip liner, pencil and shadow to define and fill in the lips, to soften the lips at the edges you can use a cotton bud or fingers to create "ghost" finish, makes lips look softer and airbrushed under camera (make sure colour covers whole of lips)


The image above best describes the make-up style created for black and white tv in this Hollywood era, everything was very defined and dramatic.














Research 

The ideal skin finish that you want to create for Black and White photography and film is similar to the skin finish and make-up in Vintage 1930, 40's photographs. In these vintage photographs women appear beautiful, flawless, sexy and airbrushed, the make-up isn't visible yet the women look beautiful and perfect under camera. 

George Hurrell is someone I have looked at since this practical lesson, he was a professional in Glamour photography during the 1930/40's and worked within the Hollywood film industry. George Hurrell invented the "Boom Light" and many other lighting techniques still used today.



Veronica Lake 1941
Jane Russell 1925

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